With spectacular glaciers, soaring fjords and vibrant communities, the west coast of Greenland will leave you breathless. Nuussuaq (formerly known as Kraulshavn) is the only mainland community in the Upernavik Archipelago. Founded in 1923 as a trading station, it’s one of the most traditional hunting and fishing villages in Greenland.
Visit Uummannaq – it’s not surprising that the red-hued, heart-shaped mountain that rises up behind gave this traditional village its name (Uummannaq means ‘heart-like’). As your ship approaches the shore, you’ll want to be on deck to take in the view of the twin peaks towering over the wooden houses dotting the rocky terrain. The settlement was established as a Danish colony in 1758 on the mainland, but it relocated five years later because seal hunting was more plentiful here.
In the nearby archaeological site of Qilaqitsoq, you’ll visit the ruins of an ancient settlement, where the remains of eight fully dressed mummies were discovered under a rock outcrop in 1972 by a pair of hunters. Cruising farther south, see Eqip Sermia – the jagged glacier soaring out of the icy waters is one of the most beautiful sights in Greenland, and you might even take a Zodiac cruise along its massive front from a safe distance.
Just south of Ilulissat (meaning iceberg), is the Ilulissat Icefjord. The UNESCO World Heritage Site is home to Sermeq Kujalleq – the most productive glacier in the northern hemisphere. As you take a Zodiac cruise at the mouth of the fjord, you may be lucky enough to witness the wonders of calving ice (listen to the loud roars as the ice breaks off). The town, which boasts more sled dogs than people, was the birthplace of explorer and anthropologist Knud Rasmussen – the first to traverse the Northwest Passage by dogsled in the early 1920s. Here, you can hike for views of the young icebergs as they float out the fjord to Disko Bay.
In Sisimiut, you’ll be treated to a traditional kayaking demonstration. The kayak (an Inuit word that the English borrowed) has become a national symbol of Greenland and has been used by Inuit hunters for thousands of years. Then, visit Itilleq just above the Arctic Circle – the southern limit of the Greenlandic sled dog. To keep the breed pure, the dogs are not permitted south of this community and all other dog breeds are prohibited this far north. It’s also known as a welcoming community, where you might experience kaffemik – a Greenlandic tradition of inviting visitors in for coffee, cakes and conversation. Explore the town’s wooden houses painted in a rainbow of colours, chat with the locals and maybe challenge them to a game of soccer.