Say goodbye to the NT and hello to WA, your introduction to the state the unexpected delights of Kununurra. It’s in the middle of nowhere, and only exists because of the Ord River Irrigation Scheme. Before it was a twinkle on the map, farming pioneers came here to establish vast cattle stations. The life of one such family is chronicled at the Durack Homestead Museum, revealing how the property was dismantled then reassembled on higher ground when much of the countryside was flooded for the dam. The project not only helped water the countryside, but created Lake Argyle. An afternoon cruise here, surrounded by freshwater crocs and birds, is something you won’t forget in a hurry. Well, until the next expedition: from Kununurra, all roads lead to some of WA’s most postcard-worthy sights, the Bungle Bungles among them.